Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus 2019

A special project put forth by the Mazzei family of Castello di Fonterutoli, the Caggio 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus is a very etched and linear wine with an extreme sense of minimality and definition that I find irresistible. Notes of graphite and pencil shaving are followed by wild fruit, blue flower and melting tannins. The wine is light on its feet. The 2019 vintage set the stage for spot-on phenolic ripening with bright primary fruit that was submitted to some time in clay vessels followed by tonneaux and botte. In terms of fermentation, the team is moving away from punch-downs to embrace more delicate submerged cap instead. The 2019 vintage is slightly more concentrated compared to 2018, with a darker quality of fruit.

Ipsus is the personal project of Giovanni Mazzei of the renowned Tuscan family, and is located just up the hill from the main winery in Castellina-in-Chianti. This 2019 is notably different from the superb 2018 (which, re-tasted at the same time, is absolutely flying right now!); the result of vintage as well as a tireless desire to adjust and refine the process. Giovanni explained that the difference was made in September, when the day-night temperatures fluctuated by almost 30°C, giving the fruit ‘incredible depth’ of flavour. The wine is a blend of 16 spontaneous micro-vinifications in stainless steel, with a 24-day submerged-cap maceration. For the first time, a 10% portion is matured in ceramic, along with 20% in 15hl barrels and 70% in new tonneaux. The wine is then blended and finished in ceramic for six months, followed by 14 months in bottle. Richer and darker in character than the 2018, the 2019 is slightly funky and wild, opening with super-fragrant pomegranate and potpourri, with an intense plummy, dark fruit core and silky tannins. It's soft yet vertical and sapid, with a long, creamy finish of savoury depth. Beautiful texture and incredible vibrancy.

Shows fine purity and intensity, from the focused cherry, raspberry, underbrush and iron aromas and flavors to the skilled use of new oak for structure, texture and hints of vanilla and toast. Opulent, yet sleek, powerful and stylish, this red is complex and long.

I love the aromas of cherry, orange peel and sandalwood here. Classy and aromatic. Full-bodied with tight and polished tannins that are precise and centered. It goes on for minutes on the palate. Needs time to open but already beautifully balanced. From 30-year-old vineyards on average. Drink after 2027.