IPSUS 2018 vs 2019

We are very excited to announce that Ipsus 2018 and 2019 are both featuring in the editor's pick from Decanter this month.

Ipsus’ project started in 2006 when the Mazzei family bought a plot of land ‘Il Caggio’ from a neighbour. The wines produced here quickly surpassed their expectation, especially when sourced from a vineyard named ‘The Clos’. As a result, 25th generation Giovanni Mazzei decided to create a vibrant Sangiovese with great purity and a sense of place, hence the name Ipsus meaning itself.

'My family's passion has always been about making emotive, complex fine wines. With IPSUS, I wanted to go beyond, and take the bounty of nature and our ancient expertise to create a pure and exquisite expression of Sangiovese that showcases the wondrous terroir of the region that I'm so proud to be a part of. I want Ipsus to be electric, vibrant, and the tannins to be silky and elegant’ - Giovanni Mazzei

The first task was to precisely identify the cooler plots of the land. Then, select the most suitable Sangiovese clones which derive from half a century of research. As a result, six plots have been chosen to make Ipsus. Once harvested, grapes are split into 16-18 micro-vinifications, fermented in a combination of stainless steel and large oak casks with careful maceration.

In 2020, after years of hard work, Giovanni decided to release the first vintage, 2015, as a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Ipsus made its debut swooping great scores from international wine critics and was referred to as a modern Italian Cru. Between 4,000 and 5,000 bottles are usually made.

Giovanni Mazzei’s personal project Ipsus is a wonderful exercise in transparency, showcasing the glorious potential of Sangiovese from Mazzei’s small hillside estate in Castellina-in- Chianti. The 2018 is an absolute stunner (I awarded it a rare 99 points earlier this year) while the new 2019 is darker and bolder but with the most beautiful floral fragrance and some funky purple and pomegranate-like fruit. There’s a chance this could be even better than the 2018 – only time will tell. - James Button, Editor’s Pick, Decanter November 2023

The Vineyard

The 6.5 hectares of vines are located on the ridge of a sun-drenched hill in Castellina in Chianti. Il Caggio is situated at an altitude of 310 and 361 meters above sea level, with vineyards exposed partially southeast and the majority southwest. The soil is composed mainly of calcareous clay and marly limestone from the Upper Cretaceous era.

Vinification

Vinification: 16 micro-vinifications
Fermentation: 10 days, spontaneous in steel vats without added yeasts
Maceration: 24 days with submerged cap
Malolactic: spontaneous and complete
Aging: 70% in tonneaux (100% new), 20% in 15 hectolitre barrels, and 10% in ceramic vats for 26 months
Finissage: 6 months in ceramic and 14 months in bottle
Tonnellerie: Barrels made by their artisans in Burgundy and Austria

Ipsus 2018 – The Growing Season

The 2018 vintage produced wines with great elegance and finesse. The year began with a dynamic winter, featuring cold currents in December and February but mild throughout the month of January. Because of the abundant rainfall of winter 2018 together with one of the wettest springs of the last thirty years, we were able to prevent any type of drought.

After a rather complicated spring, thanks to the mild temperatures and the generous rainfall, plants managed to start a rigorous budding regardless of their early start. Temperatures then slowly started to align and so on June 10th our summer began. Summer 2018, characterized by a mild climate with normal temperatures and scattered rains, allowed for regular veraison starting from the second half of July.

The month of September near the harvest showed an excellent temperature excursion, with sunny days and cool nights, thanks to which we were able to achieve a perfect phenolic and aromatic ripening of our grapes.

Ipsus 2018 – The Scores

This is the highest rated Ipsus so far with an impressive 99 points from Decanter. The wine keeps evolving in the glass and this is a magnificent experience. Secure your allocation now.

2018 saw the introduction of ceramic vessels in the winery, along with the addition of another large cask. The 16 micro-vinifications this year took place completely in stainless steel using wild yeasts, then matured for 22 months in tonneaux (80% new) and 15hl barrels. It then spent eight months in ceramic (rather than the cement used in previous vintages) before bottling. This 2018 brilliantly combines the darker fruit of 2016 with the mega-freshness of 2015, finishing it off with super-fine tannins. Creamy, earthy and chocolatey notes are lifted by a balsamic waft, overlaid with ripe, sapid red and black cherries, a touch of black tea and a long, sweet, pure cherry and wild strawberry finish. Superb. - 99 points, James Button, Decanter

Very perfumed with roses and other flowers. Spanish cedar, too. Medium-bodied with creamy and fine yet round tannins that go on for minutes. Super-fine texture. Juicy fruit. Succulent and so beautiful. Hard not to drink now. In fact, do. But it will age beautifully, too. Vineyards of 30 years or more. Drink or hold - 97 points James Suckling

Hitting the market now, the Caggio 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus unfolds slowly in the glass to reveal dark fruit, cassis, spice, cured leather and pressed blue flowers. There is a touch of something exotic like a bay leaf or a hint of toasted cumin. The finish is silky and very smooth, and this wine is longer in terms of mouthfeel and more finely polished compared to the 2016 vintage that I tasted at the same time. - 96+ points, Robert Parker

Ipsus 2019 - The Growing Season

The winter recorded average temperatures, with scarce rainfall and an unusually mild end of February. During spring and summer, thunderstorms and occasional showers allowed our vineyards to create an abundant water reserve for the year, consequently achieving an excellent initial phenological development.

The warm and regular beginning of summer, led to a generous veraison. September, characterized by beautiful sunny days and strong temperature excursions, allowed for optimal grape ripening, giving birth to wines characterized by their lively acidity, elegant tannins and intense aromas of small red fruits, blackberries, and wildflowers.

The grapes of IPSUS were in perfect condition, thanks to a light leaf-thinning at the beginning of September, we were able to wait for optimal ripening in all the parcels of the clos. The result is a high-quality wine, with a perfect balance between acidity, power and freshness. An intense and complex nose, with hints of ripe red fruit, spices, and floral notes. In the mouth, it is soft and dynamic, with a long and persistent aftertaste that leaves a pleasant sensation of freshness.

Ipsus 2019 - The Scores

This is one of the best Ipsus so far, as started in Robert Parker. Deep and concentrated with a velvety texture and long, savoury finish. Great ageing potential. Reserve your allocation now.

Ipsus is the personal project of Giovanni Mazzei of the renowned Tuscan family, and is located just up the hill from the main winery in Castellina-in-Chianti. This 2019 is notably different from the superb 2018 (which, re-tasted at the same time, is absolutely flying right now!); the result of vintage as well as a tireless desire to adjust and refine the process. Giovanni explained that the difference was made in September, when the day-night temperatures fluctuated by almost 30°C, giving the fruit ‘incredible depth’ of flavour. The wine is a blend of 16 spontaneous micro-vinifications in stainless steel, with a 24-day submerged-cap maceration. For the first time, a 10% portion is matured in ceramic, along with 20% in 15hl barrels and 70% in new tonneaux. The wine is then blended and finished in ceramic for six months, followed by 14 months in bottle. Richer and darker in character than the 2018, the 2019 is slightly funky and wild, opening with super-fragrant pomegranate and potpourri, with an intense plummy, dark fruit core and silky tannins. It's soft yet vertical and sapid, with a long, creamy finish of savoury depth. Beautiful texture and incredible vibrancy. - 98 points Decanter

I have closely followed this wine since its first edition in 2015, and although the brand continues to expand on what is so far a limited track record, this is the best edition made thus far. A special project put forth by the Mazzei family of Castello di Fonterutoli, the Caggio 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus is a very etched and linear wine with an extreme sense of minimality and definition that I find irresistible. Notes of graphite and pencil shaving are followed by wild fruit, blue flower and melting tannins. The wine is light on its feet. The 2019 vintage set the stage for spot-on phenolic ripening with bright primary fruit that was submitted to some time in clay vessels followed by tonneaux and botte. In terms of fermentation, the team is moving away from punch-downs to embrace more delicate submerged cap instead. The 2019 vintage is slightly more concentrated compared to 2018, with a darker quality of fruit. Some 4,500 bottles were made. - 97 points Monica Larner, Robert Parker

I love the aromas of cherry, orange peel and sandalwood here. Classy and aromatic. Full-bodied with tight and polished tannins that are precise and centered. It goes on for minutes on the palate. Needs time to open but already beautifully balanced. From 30-year-old vineyards on average. Drink after 2027. - 97 points James Suckling

Shows fine purity and intensity, from the focused cherry, raspberry, underbrush and iron aromas and flavors to the skilled use of new oak for structure, texture and hints of vanilla and toast. Opulent, yet sleek, powerful and stylish, this red is complex and long. - 97 points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator