White

The 2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo displays a vivid yellow-golden color. The bouquet captures the imagination as dried apricots and peaches are complemented by almond custard and cardamon. It’s the fruit that impresses first, ripe yellow apple and young peach,

The Valentini family have been winemakers since 1650, committed to the rustic artisanal tradition rooted in the land. They follow nature, not fashion: their Trebbiano d’Abruzzo enjoys international cult status but is released only when ready. In 2019,

Bright, shimmering straw yellow. Nose initially of fresh asparagus, then on citrus, elderflower, of medium expression. The palate is fresh, on stone fruit, salty and racy, slightly phenolic on the finish.

Belguardo V is a benchmark white for the Maremma. Launched with the 2008 vintage, it began incorporating 20% of amphora-vinified fruit from the 2016 vintage onwards. Belguardo is owned by the Mazzei family, and president of the Maremma Toscana consorzio,

Notes of peach pit, sliced apples, crushed almonds and acacia flowers. Medium-bodied, a little waxy and phenolic with tense acidity and a lingering, slightly tight finish. Has a mineral backbone. Drink now.

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is one of Italy's most delicious whites when done well, and this barrique-aged, lees-stirred Riserva is enticing: fresh, textured and pithy, its juicy structure is outlined by pineapple, grapefruit and a streak of salinity. Try with

A delicious Soave with lemon, lime, honeydew-melon and mineral character. Pineapple comes through with air. Medium-bodied with fresh, balanced acidity and good length. Drink now.